7 Types of Yarn Used for T-Shirts: Counts, Combed vs Carded, and More

A combed cotton t shirt manufacturer starts every quality t-shirt with the yarn, because the yarn decides the softness, strength, and look of the fabric before a single stitch is sewn. This guide explains the yarn used for t-shirts in India: the counts, the difference between carded, combed, and compact cotton, the seven main yarn types, and why we do not recommend going below combed cotton, based on more than 20 years of sourcing yarn for t-shirts in Tirupur.

Yarn Count: The Number That Sets the Fabric

Cotton yarn count describes how fine the yarn is: the higher the number, the finer the yarn. Count and fabric weight go together. For the everyday 160 to 180 GSM t-shirt, a 30s combed yarn is the standard. For heavier fabric, such as 200 GSM and above, coarser 24s or 20s yarns are used. Finer counts give a smoother, lighter jersey; coarser counts give a heavier, sturdier fabric. When a buyer asks for a particular GSM, the yarn count is the first thing we fix, because the wrong count will never reach the right weight and feel. The knitting of that yarn into fabric is covered in our guide to t-shirt jersey fabric.

Carded vs Combed vs Compact Cotton Yarn

In the carded vs combed vs compact cotton yarn choice, combed cotton is the point where a t-shirt starts to feel and wear like a quality garment, and as a combed cotton t shirt manufacturer it is the lowest grade we recommend. Below it, carded and open-end yarns save a little on price but show it in the fabric: a rougher hand, more pilling, and a t-shirt that loses its shape sooner. Compact yarn goes a step further, with an even smoother surface, and suits premium ranges.

Why We Do Not Go Below Combed: The Open-End Yarn Problem

The most common yarn problem we see in Tirupur is the mislabelling of open-end yarn. Some suppliers describe OE yarn as “100% cotton”, but it is often blended with polyester to give it enough strength to run on the knitting machine. Most international buyers are not aware of this. OE yarn is coarser, less durable, and less breathable than ring-spun combed cotton, and a brand that sells a poly-blend as pure cotton is carrying a labelling risk it does not know about. When a buyer asks us for pure cotton, we use only 100% ring-spun combed cotton, and we recommend every brand confirm its yarn source before bulk.

7 Types of Yarn Used for T-Shirts

1. Combed and Compact Cotton

The standard for quality t-shirts, from 30s combed for everyday jersey to compact yarn for premium ranges.

2. Extra-Long Staple Cotton

Supima, Pima, and Egyptian cotton, with longer fibres for a silkier hand and better durability. Our guide to Supima vs Pima cotton compares them, and mercerizing can add further lustre, as our guide to mercerized and unmercerized cotton explains.

3. Organic and Certified Cotton

Organic cotton certified to NPOP and GOTS, grown without synthetic fertilisers or pesticides, and BCI cotton from the Better Cotton programme. These are popular for baby and children’s clothing.

4. Recycled Yarns

Recycled cotton blends and recycled polyester made from PET bottles reduce waste and support a sustainability story, which is why brands increasingly look for a recycled t shirt manufacturer. We use recycled yarn in production, so any brand looking for a recycled t shirt manufacturer can build a recycled range with us, usually blended for strength and consistency.

5. Blended and Stretch Yarns

Cotton-polyester blends add durability, and for a cotton lycra t shirt manufacturer, cotton-lycra yarn, usually 95% cotton and 5% elastane, adds stretch for fitted styles. As a cotton lycra t shirt manufacturer, we follow the ratios set out in our guide to elastane and lycra blends.

6. Viscose, Modal, Bamboo, and Tencel

Regenerated fibres with a soft, fluid drape and a silky hand, used alone or blended with cotton for loungewear, sleepwear, and fashion tees.

7. Melange, Slub, and Neppy Yarns

Melange mixes dyed fibres for a heathered look, slub yarn has thick and thin sections for texture, and neppy yarn adds small coloured flecks. These yarns are seasonal: demand rises when a look comes into fashion and falls away when it passes, so they are best planned per season rather than as a permanent part of a range.

How to Specify Yarn in Your Tech Pack

State the fibre and the spinning, for example 100% cotton, ring-spun, combed or compact. Give the yarn count or the target GSM, and let the manufacturer confirm the count that achieves it. Name any certification you need, such as GOTS organic or recycled content, and ask for the certificate with the order. For blends, give the exact ratio. And approve a knitted fabric swatch before bulk, because the yarn is easier to change at the swatch stage than after the fabric is knitted. For how cotton quality compares across types, see our guide to the different types of cotton for t-shirts.

Frequently Asked Questions

What yarn is used for t-shirts?

Most quality t-shirts are knitted from ring-spun combed cotton, with compact and extra-long staple cotton for premium ranges. Other yarns include organic and recycled cotton, cotton-polyester and cotton-lycra blends, regenerated fibres such as viscose, modal, and bamboo, and fashion yarns such as melange, slub, and neppy.

What is the difference between carded, combed, and compact cotton yarn?

Carded yarn is cleaned and aligned but keeps short fibres, so it is rougher. Combed yarn has the short fibres combed out, making it smoother, softer, and stronger. Compact yarn is combed yarn spun with the fibres compacted tightly, giving the smoothest surface and the least pilling.

What yarn count is used for t-shirts?

A 30s combed cotton yarn is typical for 160 to 180 GSM t-shirt jersey. Coarser counts such as 24s or 20s are used for heavier fabric of 200 GSM and above. The higher the count number, the finer the yarn.

Is open-end yarn 100% cotton?

Not always. Open-end yarn is sometimes sold as 100% cotton while being blended with polyester for strength. It is also coarser and less durable than ring-spun combed cotton, so brands should confirm the yarn source before bulk production.

Can t-shirts be made with recycled yarn?

Yes. Recycled cotton blends and recycled polyester can be knitted into t-shirt fabric, usually blended for strength and consistency. We use recycled yarn in production for brands building a recycled range.